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Legends of Surfing

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Release : 2009-11-07
Genre : Sports & Recreation
Kind : eBook
Book Rating : 087/5 ( reviews)

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Book Synopsis Legends of Surfing by : Duke Boyd

Download or read book Legends of Surfing written by Duke Boyd. This book was released on 2009-11-07. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)

Legends of the Sandbar

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Author :
Release : 2017-06-01
Genre :
Kind : eBook
Book Rating : 481/5 ( reviews)

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Book Synopsis Legends of the Sandbar by : Christopher Bickford

Download or read book Legends of the Sandbar written by Christopher Bickford. This book was released on 2017-06-01. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A photographic and textual homage to the surfing community of the Outer Banks of North Carolina, written and photographed by Christopher Bickford. Mixes in-water photography with landscape and lifestyle photographs, and includes a variety of stories on the history, culture, and experience of the tight-knit community of waterlogged surf-heroes that make there homes on this thin strip of sand dangling on the edge of the continental shelf.

Surfing Legends Alphabet

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Author :
Release : 2020-03-12
Genre :
Kind : eBook
Book Rating : 456/5 ( reviews)

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Book Synopsis Surfing Legends Alphabet by : Beck Feiner

Download or read book Surfing Legends Alphabet written by Beck Feiner. This book was released on 2020-03-12. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From Duke Kahanamoku to Kelly Slater, Lisa Andersen to Margo Oberg, Surfing Legends Alphabet presents the A to Z of the greatest of greats who have ever dared to tame the angry sea. Cutely illustrated and passionately written, Surf Legends Alphabet is sure to make a splash with any young, or not so young, lover of the greatest water sport known to woman and man.

Making Mavericks

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Author :
Release : 2012-10-26
Genre : Sports & Recreation
Kind : eBook
Book Rating : 750/5 ( reviews)

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Book Synopsis Making Mavericks by : Frosty Hesson

Download or read book Making Mavericks written by Frosty Hesson. This book was released on 2012-10-26. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship. Making Mavericks is the inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each of them who they were—surf legends, and the subject of the upcoming film Chasing Mavericks. In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, “Live like Jay.” Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson’s determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same.

Big Wave Surfer

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Author :
Release : 2021-10-26
Genre : Sports & Recreation
Kind : eBook
Book Rating : 855/5 ( reviews)

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Book Synopsis Big Wave Surfer by : Kai Lenny

Download or read book Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny. This book was released on 2021-10-26. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.

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